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RAK402

Unfinshed Workshop

Here is a video (probably way too long of a video) of my, thus far, unfinished workshop.  This is my first attempt at a workshop (I have been working on it, a bit at a time, for a couple of months).

I still have a couple of tools to add, have to tie down wires in a neater fashion, add more lighting, removed debris and stray belts, etc.  It is a bit cramped but I intend to continue to add things until there is no more space.  The locomotive wheels will, evenutually, be replaced with nice, straight flywheels (the wobbling robs quite a bit of power.  I am transitioning from spring/wire belts to rubber (O-Ring) belts for the same reason.

Steamco STC-04 is seen towards the back of the baseboard busily generating electricity for the lamps.

Power for the tools is supplied by my childhood Jensen #55, which seems to have no problem driving all the shafts and tools.

Unfortunately, there is a short shot of my steam tool box (unfortunate because I left the darn drawers open so that you can see the mess inside).  The R/C helicopter fuel pump and lines is barely visible on the right.





My apologies for the video being so long (way too long).
Mamod Collector

Now that is impresive, certainly lots to look at  Very Happy
John Chapman

Very impressive indeed  Smile
newts

Smashing layout Very Happy
You must have spent  of time setting them out on the board,
neat, compact & very easy on the eye.
Do i spy some rubber drive bands there?
How easy are they to join with superglue?
silverfoxsteam

That is just terrific - I love it!

The Wilesco angled transmission is a really useful bit of kit.

I really like the way you've incorporated some of the tools with the drive belts between shafts, and it must've taken ages to work out the gearing so the presses and hammers etc run slow but the grinders etc run fast.
silverfoxsteam

newts wrote:

Do i spy some rubber drive bands there?
How easy are they to join with superglue?



I'm starting to se O ring belts Mike. You can order a good range of diameters and lengths as long as you want! Joining them is tricky but with a bit of practise you develop the 'knack'.

Basically the cut should be straight, the tiniest drop of cyno should be applied and the joint help motionless for a longer time than you'd think (keep you fingers out of the way!) The joint will only be made when the glue's evaporated, but by 'eck it's strong in tension!

NB - if your fingers do get stuck, PEEL them free - for heaven's sake don't try ripping them apart.   Crying or Very sad
newts

silverfoxsteam wrote:

NB - if your fingers do get stuck, PEEL them free - for heaven's sake don't try ripping them apart.   Crying or Very sad


A few yeas ago i was fitting some cornice around the top of kitchen wall cupboards.
You stick the mitres with superglue & rapid hardner spray (5 secs to set).
Top of the step ladder spray on one half, glue on the other & sqeeze together whilst lining up the front face, count to 5 slowly & its dried (still with me).
Upshot was fingers too close to the join, glue squeezed out & bingo, stuck fingers.
More than i could pull apart, thankfully the sparkie was working in the same room & carefully cut the veneer on the cornice with a stanley knife to release both index fingers.
It also gets very hot in the final second of setting (exothermic).
q29  q27
Spokesmann

Think I might stick around for any more glue jokes. Smile
newts

It's a tacky subject, that not everyone will adhere to Rolling Eyes
RAK402

"Do i spy some rubber drive bands there?
How easy are they to join with superglue?"

Newts,

As someone mentioned above, they are very easy to work with and join with CA.  They seem to grip the pulleys quite a bit better, and you don't get the bounce back from the tools and shafts due to the spring belts being "springy".
newts

RAK402 wrote:
"Do i spy some rubber drive bands there?
How easy are they to join with superglue?"

Newts,

As someone mentioned above, they are very easy to work with and join with CA.  They seem to grip the pulleys quite a bit better, and you don't get the bounce back from the tools and shafts due to the spring belts being "springy".


What diameter do you use Question
RAK402

2.4 mm for driving the shafts from the engine, from shaft to shaft, and heavy tools.

2mm for driving light tools.

The generator is running with the 2mm at the moment with no problem, but it probably should be driven with the heavier belt.
newts

Thanks for that, i'll try ''yabe''  for some, bound to be some for sale on there
silverfoxsteam

newts wrote:
Thanks for that, i'll try ''yabe''  for some, bound to be some for sale on there


I use 1.6mm for Mamod and 2mm for Wilesco.

The best supplier I've found is Altec - http://www.altecweb.com - there's various grades but I use the pretty much bog standard 'nitrile cord'. They also do small hi-temp O rings (great for saftey valves etc). Their on-line ordering system is easy, P&P reasonable and service reliable. If you use them, let us know how you get on will you?
silverfoxsteam

RAK402 wrote:
As someone mentioned above, they are....


Wow - I've never been 'someone' before!   Laughing
RAK402

Silverfox,

My apologies.

I did not mean to offend sir.
silverfoxsteam

RAK402 wrote:
Silverfox,

My apologies.

I did not mean to offend sir.


Don't worry, I was only having a bit of fun, sorry it was at your expense.

It's great to see/hear someone else who's successfully using O ring drive belts, all I've had before is negative comments. I think they're just the job. Have a look at that link I posted for Altec and if you're getting your material cheaper please let me know!

Great workshop.   Very Happy  Very Happy
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