D24 providing power for the tools (16 tools, four shafts).
T90 (prior to bearing surgery) driving Wilesco Modleplate (one shaft, three tools, not mounted properly to board).
SP2 providing electricity via Curious Steam generator.
JJ
It's about the size of the average industrial estate is that !!!!
Good as well.
Spokesmann
Highly entertaining, I like the T90.
silverfoxsteam
That is truly amazing RAK. A toy engineering masterpiece!
Did you have the overall idea to begin with or has it just grown?
RAK402
Stephen,
The intent was to build a board for a D21, then install the tools that my parents had given to me many years ago. I just left room for additional tools and add them as I find them.
I will probably pick up about three more separate tools and the Mamod Workshop. I should be able to run all those tools from the D21 or D24 or, possibly, the Jensen #55.
I may relocate some things as I would still like to have a functional water tower.
silverfoxsteam
RAK402 wrote:
I may relocate some things as I would still like to have a functional water tower.
I thought the tower was for lighting - my mistake, I was too busy watching all the other stuff. What do you have planned for the functioning aspect of the tower? Is it a supply for the D21 feed pump?
I confess that I love my D21 - looks great, performs very well, stacks of power, and if you keep feeding the esbit tabs and keep the boiler topped up you can run it for ever!
Spokesmann
That D21 is an impressive looking lump!
RAK402
"I thought the tower was for lighting - my mistake, I was too busy watching all the other stuff. What do you have planned for the functioning aspect of the tower? Is it a supply for the D21 feed pump?"
You did not make a mistake! The existing tower is for lighting. I have another one that lost its lights long before I got it, and I thought I might add a tank, if I have room.
And yes, I do want to use it for a supply for the D21.
"I confess that I love my D21 - looks great, performs very well, stacks of power, and if you keep feeding the esbit tabs and keep the boiler topped up you can run it for ever!"
"That D21 is an impressive looking lump!"
The D21 is a work of art (at least to me). Mine runs beautifully as well. I keep a small cup of water handy and just keep it going too! The feedwater pump is one of the nicest features I have seen on a model engine (I wish that the D24 had one). I think the longest I have run the D21 is about two hours (with stops to refill the oiler and lubricate the mechanics every 20 minutes or so). I have an alcohol burner which I made, that I can top off while running (very carefully).
silverfoxsteam
RAK402 wrote:
I have an alcohol burner which I made, that I can top off while running (very carefully).
That explains the burners in the video - I meant to ask. Can you give us more detail of those please?
RAK402
Stephen,
I kept seeing alcohol burners on the forums (including some nice threads on building them), but not much of anything pre-made available in the States (at least nothing that I could find).
The burners are steel candle tins, purchased from the local craft store (four for two dollars). I drilled a hole in them, and soldered in a piece of 9/16" brass tubing with a metal cap from the hardware store soldered to the other end. The wick is Tiki Torch wick. There is a piece of lead weight on the cap (some are inside, one is just stuck to the top) to balance out the weight of the tube. There are magnets inside the steel tin, to keep the burner from jumping around on the engines base plate too much (one has a round piece of magnetic rubber on the botton. A very small hole is drilled in the lid of the tin for a vent.
I have refilled them while the engines are operating (while the burner was lit) by removing the lid and pouring alcohol in from an R/C car fuel bottle, but do not recommend this as, occasionally, it flashes and the contents of the resevoir start to burn (easily stopped by re-installing the cover).
The cost of one of these burners is well under $5.00 each (the brass tube is the most expensive component).
I do expect the tins to rust, over time. When they do, I will just solder the tubing into a new tin.
