Spokesmann
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Mamod SE1, SE2 and SE3 detailing and changesWhilst preparing some engines for the forthcoming Exeter Garden Railway Exhibition in October, I thought it would be nice to photograph some of the engines which will be on display as well as bring to light some of the less obvious changes which Malins Engineers effected over the years. For this little gathering I have shot all the engines out of doors as its mild and relatively bright today, hence you will see some subtle colour shifts in baseplates and so on. This collection of engines dates from between 1954 and 1978 and illustrates Malins sometime subtle policy of constantly updating their products. Hope you enjoy the images and participate in some technical debate!
Here we have a group consisting of 3 SE1 engines as well as an SE2.
The SE1s date from 1954, 1967 and 1978 (SE1a), the SE2 is from c1958. They make an interesting gathering and exhibit subtle changes of baseplate colour, engine frame colour as well as detailing such as boiler end caps moving from plain to raised and overflo plugs moving from single arm to double flat arms and finally to the sight glass.
The different firing methods are evident here with wick, vapourising as early solid fuel burners on show
Boiler end caps and overflow plugs show very subtle changes...
1954 SE1
1967 SE1...
1978 SE1a...
This engine has never been fired by the way.
1958 SE2...
Im always banging on about hammerite green engine frames! Here you can see the subtle difference in colour. I have managed to isolate this paint usage to around 1967-70, I quite like it as a change to the the normal mint green used.
This is on the 67 SE1, probably the last gasp of the SE1 before it was revised into the SE1a, with no superheating or union on the steam pipe.
54 SE1...
78 SE1a...
58 SE2...
This engine was to change a lot, with regard to the engine frame the reg lever became a modified whistle type are soon after. Note too the classic 1950s thick rimmed flywheel.
Note the changes in piston/cylinder design too with barrel, one-piece types giving away to the two-piece soldered versions, probably with the introduction of the SE3. Although some of these can be found with barrel pistons, Malins using up stock again?
Im sure you can see other changes in piston and conrod design as well as firebox shape and jointing even SV knurling and decoration!, with careful examination of an engine it is possible to reveal all sorts of possibly theories and background to the way Malins worked and updated their wares all it takes is obersvation of many engines and careful note taking to build up a really useful picture for collectors and enthusiasts.
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Spokesmann
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Here we have a couple of SE3s which will be visiting Exeter soon. Both these date form the end of the 1960s-very early 1970s. Both exhibit the classic hallmarks of the time - namely hammerite paint, compressed scalloped decals as well as plain end boilers. Of course one is a Griffin and George variation made in batches up to about 1972 by which time 2,000 had been completed. The other SE3 shows the screw crank set up and (in my view) poor push button whistle. The whistle in my own view just does not work well, the idea is good but the thing has a tendency to stick open, maybe the plastic insert expanding? The screw cranks are another matter. I have no idea why this was changed and for how long, one thing is for sure is that the design was not very long lived, i have seen no SE3s from later in the 1970s with these cranks, maybe they are out there, maybe they were modified by owners... Anyway it makes a very interesting variation on what must be one of Mamod's most pleasing designs. I have an early SE3 from around c1957 with barrel pistons and early large vap lamp - that one will be staying at home. Looking at these two Im sure you will spot other subtle changes to the SE3 design.
Some SE3s had two pulleys, some were brass, some plain steel... Note changes in size.
Ill fated push button whistle could be found on the SE2a and SR1a for a short time...
My G&G currently has a sprung whistle as its turned brass one is on the 1958 SE2...
Boiler union and regulator...
Close inspection may reveal more tiny design changes. Its amazing what you may find and learn just by looking!
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Mamod Collector
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Some lovely engines there Mike, and a interesting read
The G&G in my favourite one 
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kingpingu
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a very nice collection of engines there, they look fantastic cleaned up like that. interested to note the running in label on one. can you explain the method of running in for these please.
rgrds
rich
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Spokesmann
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| kingpingu wrote: | a very nice collection of engines there, they look fantastic cleaned up like that. interested to note the running in label on one. can you explain the method of running in for these please.
rgrds
rich |
Rich, Mamods advice was to always flush the boiler of the first run and use a suitable motor grade oil (20W50 etc). As with all engines a gradually better performance is obtained with regular running as well as correct lubrication. With all my engine I have has from new I have ensure they are run in by oiling both before and during a run.
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Spokesmann
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| Mamod Collector wrote: | Some lovely engines there Mike, and a interesting read
The G&G in my favourite one |
The G&G SE3 Mike is relatively 'bomb proof' ie put up with sh!t loads of bad treatment in school! 
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Mamod Collector
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Any one know why Mamod said not to use Thin oil ?
Have have used it before and it seemed to work ok 
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Spokesmann
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| Mamod Collector wrote: | Any one know why Mamod said not to use Thin oil ?
Have have used it before and it seemed to work ok |
Thick oil lasts longer? to be honest none of the aprts are really stretched or stressed that much, Ive used thick motor oil for years since I was a kid, neve had an engine fail yet!
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kingpingu
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im using 3in1 oil on mine and also putting a bit in the boiler too, in the hope that some oil gets carried into the engine with the steam.
rgrds
rich
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Spokesmann
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| kingpingu wrote: | im using 3in1 oil on mine and also putting a bit in the boiler too, in the hope that some oil gets carried into the engine with the steam.
rgrds
rich |
I've wondered about doing that on my Marine engines which have no displacement lubricators, but I have read in some circles it can cause a lot of gunk and build up in the steam pipes. Any feedback on this method, agreed though that 3in1 is a thinner oil (takes me back to my earlier days of cycling and my first bike!) and should be less prone to clotting, although it is an oil and will emulsify with hot water.
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silverfoxsteam
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As I understand it the choice of oil is all down to the temperature that the lubricated surface(s) will be exposed to.
Thinner oil penetrates better, but will run away more easily too especially when hot.
I use 3-in-1 for most plain, cool bearings; motor oil for oscilating cylinders and distribution blocks (including the felt pads where fitted) and the much thicker steam oil for all in-line displacement lubricators.
Those of us who work with full-size (of real-scale versions) of steam engines will know why you have to keep your steam oil can near the fire - it's like tar when it's cold!
In the end though, anything's better than nothing!!
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silverfoxsteam
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By the way - very nice engines Mike!
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Spokesmann
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| silverfoxsteam wrote: | | By the way - very nice engines Mike! |
Thanks Stephen, my comfort zone of collecting!
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