Spokesmann
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Hobbies/Mamod Arrow-2... 'Marion'Well I have bitten the bullet and decided to build another 'Arrow'. This vessel will be called 'Marion' after my late mother and will follow the original plans a little more closely - not a lot but some way.
This boat will be powered by a near mint ME3 (c1965) and be equipped with brass spray deck as well as brass engine cowling in the form of bridgehouse (sitting on top of the ME3 chrome cowling) - for want of a better way of describing it. (Im sure Fred has the correct terminology). This steam launch will again feature no mod cons ie RC, and will have a similar rudder set up to the Arrow/1 Spirit of Freesteam. The final drive to a larger all-brass 3-blade screw will be by the 100mm prop shaft shown here. Due the the shorter baseplate on the ME3 the internals will be a little easier to set out as well as give me more room for the burner to be removed. The engine will be mounted on a small plinth so as to enable me to get the right angle for the engine to drive onto the prop shaft (the engine is still unit construction), via a brass homemade UJ. I have made copious amounts of drawings and sketches on the project and will post them up tomorrow. Due to the fact that the engine exhaust pipe faces back towards the boiler has given me the idea to mount an old pre-war Meccano ships funnel on the brass bridgehouse and run brass tubing back into the engine cowl and up the chimney, the chimney by the way will sit over the SV. My sketches should make everything clear! - hopefully.
I aim to get this project ready by the end of the year at the latest.
In the meantime here are some quick images of the very initial stages... Ill take images each and every major step of he way, so this could be a long thread.
Ready for business...
Wood pack...
A great company - still with us thankfully...
Rudder and prop shaft...
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Mamod Collector
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I think I'm gona enjoy this thread 
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Spokesmann
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It may prove to be a long one Mike.
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silverfoxsteam
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Hey - my Mum's called Marion and we've just celebrated her 97th birthday! I may well show her a few pictures of your boat as it comes together if you don't mind Mike.
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Spokesmann
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No worries Stephen. Im hoping to start cutting out the main parts on Saturday... Im looing forward to this one, as the experiece Ive picked up on the first Arrow will be helpful here . . .
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John Chapman
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I'll be watching this one with great interest 
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Spokesmann
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... and your ME1 John?
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John Chapman
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| Spokesmann wrote: | | ... and your ME1 John? |
Sill in the shed, still in bits  That's why I'm watching with interest. I have a set of "Arrow" plans tucked away safely waiting for me to get off my a**se and do something with them. I rather fancy something that cosmetically resembles the Perico boat - that used the ME1 engine.
Regarding the Hobbies wood pack Mike, what's it like? looks like it might be mahogany in the photos.
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Spokesmann
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Here are my sketches/doodles for the new Arrow project . . . worthy of a Malins 'fag packet' approach methinks! 
Overall elevations...
Details of decking and enginehouse...
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Spokesmann
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I have begun to mark out a few parts today and generally organise myself in the workshop. As you can see from the pictures the ME3 sits very nicely on the baseplate, it will sit towards the rear of the wooden baseplate, its position will be governed by the rear bulkhead. As you can see the exhaust set up is pretty tidy, I had some spare Mamod tubing and this just needs to be attached to the existing ME3 exhaust pipe with a rubber sealing tube. I have marked out and begun to cut some of the main internal bulkheads and parts. Once I have one hull side cut and shaped I will use it as a template for the other (starboard side). Very early days yet but here are a few images...
Here we go again...
The ME3 will set quite far back, allowing plenty of room to remove the brass vap lamp, I do not want to cut a hole in the forward bulkhead and weaken it.
The ME3 and its genuine pre-war Meccano ships funnel...
The funnel will be bolted to the brass deck/engine house cover.
Experimenting with couplings for the drive.
The brass UJ will have elongated slots so the allow free movement of the spigots on the drive pulley - the engine will be monted on a plinth so as to give an angle of about 5 degrees on the prop shaft - some experimentation will be required here, as I will not 'split' the engine and boiler/baseplate
Funnel...
Exhaust steam set up...
The funnel will sit over the SV ie sharing the same hole in the brass cover.
Marking begins!
My crib sheet for parts to be cut out...
The Hobbies plans are very comprehensive.
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Mamod Collector
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This is gona be a good thread
Would there be enough room to put a inline oiler on the ME3 Mike
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steamyjim
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Looking good Mike!!!!! Love the chimney etc!
Must start mine!
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Spokesmann
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| Mamod Collector wrote: | This is gona be a good thread
Would there be enough room to put a inline oiler on the ME3 Mike |
Sorry Mike but I will not alter or modify the engine in any way! 
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Spokesmann
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| steamyjim wrote: | Looking good Mike!!!!! Love the chimney etc!
Must start mine! |
You must! 
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Spokesmann
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Cutting has started in earnest today, some of the timber has some imperfections, fortunateley the sides affected can place so they face 'inside'...
I have hit a minor snag in that the forward main bulkhead will need to be moved to wards the bow by 1/1-1/2", so as to allow the lamp to be inserted. As I have said I do want to deviate from the plan too much this time. From the pics you can see I have roughly cut out the shapes, I tend to cut to just outside the marked line then file to final shape. The thinner wood can be cut using a very sharp scalpel and stanley knife on the fiddly complex parts.
Here are a few images showing the relative positions of the engine and internals so far...
The rear will need careful consideration so as to ensure the stern tube fits correctly. I will need to drill into the rear bulkhead and base to accommodate the tube at the correct angle.
Too tight!
This needs to loose 1-1-1/2 inches!
Marked timer ready for cutting.
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Mamod Collector
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Its a shame the wood is damaged Mike
Cant you ask Hobbies for a replacement
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Spokesmann
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| Mamod Collector wrote: | Its a shame the wood is damaged Mike
Cant you ask Hobbies for a replacement |
No point, you wont see it once built.
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Spokesmann
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Finished for the day (2/05/09). Cutting is well underway now, although some very careful drilling and adjustments will be needed to get the engine in and fit stern tube prop shaft. I am also going to amke two boxes (ala Bowman rough timber type) for the two boats, I have a lod of pressure treated rough saw timber that will be ideal, these will be glued and pinned with a hinged lid.
Baseplate takes shape...
Thus far...
Bevelling of base plates part to do...
Timber for boxes...
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Spokesmann
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Work continues....
Still cutting, shaping, filing etc . . . the hard bit. Starting to a take a little shape now, and this gives me the info I need when I have to adapt the inners slightly to accommodate the ME3. The engine will sit a little higher in the hull as it sits on two 5mm strips of mahogany, this gives me a better angle for the prop tube. The drilling of the hole for this will be critical. I will drill the hole for the rudder once I know how much the tube will protrude, once I have adjusted the internal bulkheads at the bow slightly - sort of knock on affect. Anyway here are a few images. You'll also notice my pile of offcuts, I always keep these bits... you never know. I have cut out brass sheet today for the engine house ...
The profile is more in keeping with the original plan...
Im starting to offer up the parts now to give me an idea of small adjustments that will be needed in terms of fit...
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made-in-england
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looking great mike!
I do love the old bowman boxes!
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Spokesmann
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Not Bowman Will but of that style, both boats will need a stout overcoat for protection...
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steamyjim
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Love it Mike!
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Spokesmann
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Thanks Jim, hopefully get back to cutting and filing at the weekend. Im aiming to get this one done by October . . .
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steamyjim
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| Spokesmann wrote: | | Thanks Jim, hopefully get back to cutting and filing at the weekend. Im aiming to get this one done by October . . . |
Looking forward to seeing it, I have a few more projects on my plate before I start mine however 
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Spokesmann
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Well its worth while, you'll learn a lot. its so nice to have an engine which has had a lot of persoanl input into its creation, I can see why a lot of collectors love these boats!
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Spokesmann
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Only done a few bits and bobs over the last few days, i have made a dummy for the engine house cover...
This will sit on top of the ME3 cowl, supported by two wooden strips glued to the hull insides. The card dummy gives an idea of how it will look. The funnel will be bolted to this. The whole ensemble will be cut from sheet brass and will be polished to a high degree. Port holes at the side will aid air flow around the engine.
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Mamod Collector
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Thats going be a stunner when finished
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Spokesmann
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A few images of the brass bridge/engine house. This was drawn from a card copy marked out to size. It still need a few bits drilling out asome more and a final filing and polish...
You get the idea though.
Its sitting a little high just now, the SV hole has to be drilled out a little more...
A few close ups. This will be polished to a high shine. Im thinking of getting some eyelets to attach in the 'port' hole at the sides...
Anyone know where I can get some?
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John Chapman
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That's coming on really well Mike
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Spokesmann
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Thanks John, how's that ME1 of yours?
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John Chapman
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| Spokesmann wrote: | | Thanks John, how's that ME1 of yours? |
err! still in bits at the moment, but work has started
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Spokesmann
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| John Chapman wrote: | | Spokesmann wrote: | | Thanks John, how's that ME1 of yours? |
err! still in bits at the moment, but work has started |
Come on John!
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Spokesmann
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Some picture of work so far today...
I have been concentrating on sorting small jobs, filing wood sections for end piece and sorting out the brass cowl. I have also cut some wood strips to support the brass cover. The natural springyness of the brass will hold in place, although i might score to longitudinal lines into the hull sides to give it a bit of extra grip. The pics show the engine and its cover in their relative positions now, the rear decking has but cut and filed. Im thinking of having three decals on this one, Hobbies, Mamod and SEL in a small motif set on the rear deck...
The engine has been fitted with a UJ now, the grub screw securing the dogged pulley is a bit of a pain, but it'll work. I need to just file out the holes a little more so they are more oval in shape to allow for sufficient movement of the prop. Anyway here are some more images....
Lamp in position, the bulkheads at the front will need adjusting to be closer together to allow space for the lamp to be put into position and taken out. I have allowed for room for it to protrude from the firebox hole so it can be lit.
Cowl and engine details...
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Mamod Collector
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The brass cowl is very nice Mike
Might sound a daft question, but how did you make the dimples on the top
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Spokesmann
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| Mamod Collector wrote: | The brass cowl is very nice Mike
Might sound a daft question, but how did you make the dimples on the top |
With the drill! I pushed these in more to get the effect after playing around with some off cuts of brass. I have to say I did use an electric drill!
The side holes or port holes will be edged with brass eyelets ala Wilesco D14 style...
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Mamod Collector
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Very effective Mike
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Spokesmann
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Begun gluing now, with the stout timber for the rear sub frame being sorted, along with the rear decking. Im starting the test out bits now to ascertain the relative positions Im going to need for the engine unit and forward bulkheads. The prop shaft is the shorted I can get and by my reckoning I can just squeeze a 40mm brass propellor on, with the right angle for it and the UJ.. Problem is the grub screw on the ME3 pulley limits the up and down movement of my UJ, thus affecting the angle I can allow the prop-shaft to be positioned at. I have to be very careful when drilling the rear hole for it to pass through out into the stern, the angle has to be spot on, as the UJ must be able to turn freely without snagging the grub screw an itself. If onlt the spigots for the shaft where at 90 degrees to the grub screw, the UJ ends would miss it then - if you know what I mean! I cannot even use a Meccano UJ as the ME3 crankshaft is thinner than the normal Meccano type. Infuriating. I will in no way alter the ME3, I could solder horazontal dogs onto a different pulley but that to me is not right.
Here are some images...
Im starting to shape this more now for a perfect fit...
UJ and grub screw troubles!
The fit will be tight!
Forward bulkhead will but cut to size once I have sorted the exact position of the engine. Which is dependent on the rear end troubles outlined above.
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steamyjim
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Looking good Mike!!!!! What about having a shorter grub screw that only just comes to the surface of the pulley? You could probably cut that one down just enough to do it.
Must find/make an engine for mine...hmmmm replica Bowman engine 
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Spokesmann
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| steamyjim wrote: | Looking good Mike!!!!! What about having a shorter grub screw that only just comes to the surface of the pulley? You could probably cut that one down just enough to do it.
Must find/make an engine for mine...hmmmm replica Bowman engine |
Thats one solution, although Im loathed to 'molest' the original state of the engine in any way, may have a spare . . . .
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steamyjim
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| Spokesmann wrote: | | steamyjim wrote: | Looking good Mike!!!!! What about having a shorter grub screw that only just comes to the surface of the pulley? You could probably cut that one down just enough to do it.
Must find/make an engine for mine...hmmmm replica Bowman engine |
Thats one solution, although Im loathed to 'molest' the original state of the engine in any way, may have a spare . . . . |
A bolt is removable, if you can find another you could save this one to replace if you ever wish to...
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Spokesmann
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| steamyjim wrote: | | Spokesmann wrote: | | steamyjim wrote: | Looking good Mike!!!!! What about having a shorter grub screw that only just comes to the surface of the pulley? You could probably cut that one down just enough to do it.
Must find/make an engine for mine...hmmmm replica Bowman engine |
Thats one solution, although Im loathed to 'molest' the original state of the engine in any way, may have a spare . . . . |
A bolt is removable, if you can find another you could save this one to replace if you ever wish to... |
They are an odd size, ie not Meccano sized! 
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steamyjim
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| Spokesmann wrote: | | steamyjim wrote: | | Spokesmann wrote: | | steamyjim wrote: | Looking good Mike!!!!! What about having a shorter grub screw that only just comes to the surface of the pulley? You could probably cut that one down just enough to do it.
Must find/make an engine for mine...hmmmm replica Bowman engine |
Thats one solution, although Im loathed to 'molest' the original state of the engine in any way, may have a spare . . . . |
A bolt is removable, if you can find another you could save this one to replace if you ever wish to... |
They are an odd size, ie not Meccano sized! |
Hmmm, you haven't a spare Mamod pulley have you? From a lineshaft or similar?
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Spokesmann
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All taken Jim, Ill have a rummage!
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steamyjim
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| Spokesmann wrote: | | All taken Jim, Ill have a rummage! |
Good luck
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Spokesmann
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If I cant find one, it'll just have to do as it is! One grub screw causing this much grief! Ideally it would be better id the spigots for the pulley and the grub screw hole were not on the same centre as I have said!
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Spokesmann
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A quick update of progress...
Im preparing to glue the stern part of the boat now, I have made a couple of extra strengthening 'buttresses' for the rear assembly. Once this is firmly in position I can turn my attention to the bow which will need the centre bulkhead adjusting to allow access for the vap lamp.
Once all the front bulkhead widths are adjusted for the new dimentions I can glue them and basically have all the internals done. The tricky part will be drilling the hole for the prop shaft tube. You will note that the engine is now mounted on two strips of mahogany to aid a better angle foe the prop shaft.
I will be ordering a 40mm M6 threaded brass prop for this model.
Rear decking...
Some adjustment and shortening will be required here...
Wood behind the boat is for the two boxes Im going to fabricate for the two vessels...
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Mamod Collector
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Your workshop looks rather cluttered Mike
Time to get the missis in there to clear it out
P.S. Boat is looking good Mike
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Spokesmann
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| Mamod Collector wrote: | Your workshop looks rather cluttered Mike
Time to get the missis in there to clear it out
P.S. Boat is looking good Mike |
She's allowed in by invitation only! My workshop is a very small former scullery outbuilding.
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Mamod Collector
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| Spokesmann wrote: |
She's allowed in by invitation only |
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Spokesmann
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Sanctuary.
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Spokesmann
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Been doing a few small jobs, making brass drip trays for the inners and fabricating a foredeck under brass cover. There is a lot of sheet brass in this boat! I have been experimenting with various UJ set ups and have decided Im going to try a Meccano one, the ME3 pulley does not work with my set up. Stern tube has been glued into position, which involved some careful drilling to get the best angle. Been cutting and shaping other small bits of wood ready for the final gluing of the hull sides. I have to 'saw' the sides yet with a tennon saw to help then flex better in the bending and gluing process. The supports for the brass engine house have now been put in, these are glued to the hull inners sides and sit between the saw cuts for aiding hull sides bending. Slow but sure progress. Here are some images of the build so far today.
Fore drip tray, in case meths drops onto the inners when inserting the lamp...
Front bulkhead have been adjusted for position, slightly away from the original plans...
Engine baseplate supports...
Fore brass deck undercover. Ballast will sit in the little compartments under here...
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Mamod Collector
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Some nice touches there Mike with the brass drip trays
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Spokesmann
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Been making a new spray hood for the boat. This again has been made from sheet brass. There is a lot of brass in this vessel! The basic shape was developed from the basic plan shape, using the hull profile to draw the shape a little widen so as to get the lift away from the brass engine house. I tried several test bits before drilling the holes for the vents... here are a few images. (Note the front bulkheads have been glued into position now and a cover made again from the sheet brass).
Back to TD drawing lessons!
Making the the shaped spray hood...
inside...
Some minor adjustment will be required for the final fit...
I can say that i will be building a final third boat, powered by the ME2 engine unit, this will be a little different from the first two, that build is a way off at the moment!
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Mamod Collector
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Thats going to look impresive on a big pond with the sun light reflecting off all that brass
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Spokesmann
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Some images of work so far. Been cutting the decking top part to the hull and filing them to the same profile - time consuming. UJ and prop have arrived too. Getting to the point now where the major gluing of the hull sides will be done - I ned to get a couple more clamps for that. The bridgehouse now has some brass eyelets for the 'port holes'. These need to be fixed into position. I have routed the exhaust pipe up and secured to the ME3 engine with a strong and tight rubber tube. Anyway here are a few pictures in the sun of how the boats looks now . . .
Engine house/cover...
New brass 3-blded Hobbies RH prop. 40mm diameter - just fits!
Hull details...
Engine details, UJ still needs some adjustment at the stern tube end. It has been modified to fit the ME3 dogged pulley.
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Spokesmann
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Been looking closely at the engine today and have com to the decision Im going to have to move the engine back 10-15mm from the UJ, which will mean Ill have to drill out the pop rivets on the engine baseplate and move back to the two holes behind (already there), a pain, but without doing this the engine will sit too far back towards the bow to allow the lamp to be taken out, a pain but absolutely necessary and the easiest solution. Watch this space.
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silverfoxsteam
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Wonderful pictorial account of this project Mike! Love the brasswork.
The close-up of the engine that shows the big end detail is impressive. It looks far more 'businesslike' than the usual Mamod part.
Should the UJ be set at such an angle?
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Spokesmann
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The angle is exaggerated but I need a fair degree of movement. The UJ works well but needs more space, so the engine will move back, I have a pop rivetter so that no trouble, the extra 10-15mm will really sort things out. Really I wish I had not built the engine up on a raiser. All the problems I have encouterd on this build and the previous one will be ironed out for the third, and final build - as yet un-named vessel built around my ME2. I've turned the engine over with the angled UJ and is really flexes well.
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Spokesmann
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Not too much exciting to show. Been making a box and improved stand, as well as preparing the hull sides for gluing - been sawing the slits to aid bending the wood - by the far the trickiest part of the build to accomplish.
I have also been varnish the mahogany decking parts as well as making sure all internal bulkheads are flush with the hull base profile ready for glueing to side hull parts.
I still have to adjust the position of the ME3 engine unit on its baseplate...
Once the hull is fully glued I will prime and paint, then start fitting the engine and other ancilliary parts.
Improved boat stand...
Box still needs work, is made from pressure treated, rough saw timber for a 'artisan' look. These will be stencilled with an 'Arrow' graphic.
The boat itself...
Stern parts...
This is an easy part to glue in, fins and skeg all line up!
This shows how much the hull sides have to curve to fit...
Vertical cuts in the hull panels help this, although they can only be so deep, too much and the wood will crack, not enough and it wont bend enough.
Brass engine house just need its eyelets fitted now, I see my idea has been picked up and passed off as an innovative idea elsewhere... 
I think Luton might have thought of it first.
More images when something more exciting is happening!
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John Chapman
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Coming on a treat Mike and I do like the box.
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Spokesmann
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| John Chapman wrote: | | Coming on a treat Mike and I do like the box. |
I like it too, I have a lot of that timber, it came from my ex-partners fathers workshop, he was a bit of a DIY buff and has tons of it, too good to dump when we cleared the house.
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Mamod Collector
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I like these boat building threads, we need more pics though
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Spokesmann
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I have been doing rather small mundane part Mike, dont want to bore you guys.
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Spokesmann
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I have been doing rather small mundane part Mike, dont want to bore you guys.
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Spokesmann
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| John Chapman wrote: | | Coming on a treat Mike and I do like the box. |
I like it too, I have a lot of that timber, it came from my ex-partners fathers workshop, he was a bit of a DIY buff and has tons of it, too good to dump when we cleared the house.
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Scorpion2nz
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just found this thread I see you put shallow cuts in the wood to allow it to bend .Have you considered heating and steaming the wood to bend ??
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Spokesmann
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| Scorpion2nz wrote: | | just found this thread I see you put shallow cuts in the wood to allow it to bend .Have you considered heating and steaming the wood to bend ?? |
No sorry Dennis, this method works fine - with care!
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newts
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I've been testing producing boat sides by steaming recently, with a heavy duty wall paper steamer & a length of old 4" drain pipe.
With this method you have to make the mould to a sharper curve, as the timber will spring back when it's cooled & removed from the mould.
The spring back can be very unpredictable which is no good for a batch run.
More test in the coming months may iron out some glitches, but i'm going away from the steaming idea.
''Kerfing' the sides with evenly spaced & regular depth cuts is the easiest way for the home woodworker to produce even curves.
The other way is to cut the curves from a solid block of wood, which is the method used for the majority of bowman/hobbies boats
(as mentioned in the latest TSN).
This was adopted by GBJ as the most economical way to produce batches of similar pieces, but does require a bandsaw & bobbin/belt sander for speed.
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Spokesmann
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Good info Mike, its bad enough getting the clamps and glue in poition with this method, but steaming! Mmmm a bit too much like trouble for me! Id be interested in some pics of your experiments. GBJ hulls were essentially 5 bits of wood! This one is more like 12 or so...
Presumably the wood needs pinning as well as glueing when still hot and flyable?
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Scorpion2nz
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it is just that I also build cabinets and other things in timber have curved and laminated timber before .A microwave works well for small pieces and PVC pipe is ok for longer pieces on top of a pot on stove or gas burner .What timber have you used for the boat . my choice would be Kauri (A Native NZ timber) very light and strong with no knots or flaws because of the way it grows
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Spokesmann
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Would be interested to see your work Dennis...
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Spokesmann
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Today its been time to sort the engine unit out. In order to get sufficent access to the lamp and hence be able to get it in and out, I have had to move the engine forward, however this meant that the dogged pulley on the ME3 was too close to the prop PTO. Fortunately a simple solution was at hand, merely move the engine unit backwards. Also fortunately the baseplate has an extra pair of holes for this purpose. So after drilling out the pop rivets holding the brass sled on which the case brass frame of the engine is rivetted, it was just a case of moving it all back 10-14mm. This would give me more room. This simple procedure though necessitated dismantling the whole engine so I can get out the crankshaft and get at the rivet ends... It also has given me a chance to clean and check everything over. Only real pain was that the steam pipe had to be desoldered whilst I reshaped it to fit better... The other side was OK as it has a flexible couple in the form of a rubber sleeve. The new rivets had to be squashed down a little so they don't foul the brass flywheel, the overall impression of the SEL1560 engine is one of a very well-built and heavier unit than the ME1 or ME2, this one should have no problems driving the bigger and heavier brass 3-blade propellor at the other end and overcoming the extra drag caused by the big UJ. I have taken quite a few shots so apologies in advance. The eagle eyed will note too that I have moved the boiler further back on its firebox base so help routing the re-soldered steam pipe that much easier. One downside is that the engine unit is now closer to the boiler and the overflow plug, but hey that's a minor inconvenience. here are some pics from today.
An overview of the ME3 and its constituent parts. (This engine has seen very little steaming).
Note the big piston...
Engine sits on a brass sled which is in turn rivetted to the baseplate...
Boiler nit is identicle to the ME1 and ME2 and it Minor 2 sized...
Characteristic scalloped bottom edge to the F/box - dating back to the pre-war ME1...
These didn't last long...
The serrations which engaged with the early lamps fireboxe end shields, help to hold it into position...
My new rivets...
In position...
Rivet heads had to be pushed down to avoid fouling the turning flywheel, which is incidentally quite heavy for its size...
The big UJ fits into a splined end fitted to the prop shaft and allows some more movement on the shaft...
Pipe to be soldered...
Note steam 'dome'.
Done...
Views in the daylight...
Overall look at the whole project coming together, the time for gluing the hull sides is not far off now...
Bow hull sides now profiled for gluing...
Brass cover keep ballast in place.
Front deck strips still be cut to final fit...
The engine unit now sits further forward and is more underneath the overall brass bridge house assembly...
Thats your lot for now. But I may post later some of my initial idea for Arrow-3, which will be powered by the rare ME2 engine unit.
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Mamod Collector
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Superb
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John Chapman
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That's coming on a treat Mike
When I've looked at the Hobbies Arrow plans and indeed the boats in photos I've always had a feeling they looked as though they could do with being about an inch longer. Might have made fitting the engine/burner a bit easier as well. Any thoughts gents?
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Spokesmann
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| John Chapman wrote: | That's coming on a treat Mike
When I've looked at the Hobbies Arrow plans and indeed the boats in photos I've always had a feeling they looked as though they could do with being about an inch longer. Might have made fitting the engine/burner a bit easier as well. Any thoughts gents? |
If you use the Mamod Trio of engines as found then space can be tight, my Arrow 1 needs a bit time and care extracting and putting the lamp in, esp when full of meths. The ME1 BASEPLATE DOES NOT HELP. I have had a few problems with the ME3 and as you can see from my recent pics I have have to adjust the engine units position on the baseplate. There is room in the wood kit to make the hull an inch or two longer - I will be doing this with Arrow-3. Of course if the engines are used in a non-unit form ie separated from the baeplate then you can work things a little easier....
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silverfoxsteam
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Absolutely brilliant account and the photos are so well detailed. Apreciate the trouble you're taking to capture sll this Mike.
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Spokesmann
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| silverfoxsteam wrote: | | Absolutely brilliant account and the photos are so well detailed. Apreciate the trouble you're taking to capture sll this Mike. |
Its good fun and something to look back on when the boats are complete!
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Spokesmann
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Been doing a few bits and bob whilst I wait for some new clamps to arrive.
I have made a brass cover for the fore bulkhead next to the burner, these can get and and the shield on the lamp will protect it a bit, but Im taking no chances... I have heard of them catching alight, but thats just poor preparation and execution by the novice...
I have also sorted out the decals and the two brass side strips for the inner part of the hull. These brass parts will be epoxyed into position once the sides are painted.
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Spokesmann
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Splined drive and UJ fitted finally and it moves smoothly
The set up allows a fair degree of movement. The splined connector and the propellor are locked to the shaft using two M4 brass nuts...
A test steaming may follow at the weekend...
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Spokesmann
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Video of steam test with engine coupled to prop via UJ.
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Spokesmann
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A few images from this morning test steaming. All went well, the UJ and prop didn't bind, the propellor stayed put and the soldered joint I made at the steam dome held fast.
Arrow 2 with the powerplant for Arrow 3 in the background.
The rare ME2 will be powering Arrow 3, the engine is shown here with the similar set up that is usd on Arrow 2s ME3 engine.
Back to Arrow 2, here is the ME3 hooked up...
Prop with lock nut...
ME3 in steam...
As a consequence of moving the engine unit back, clearance is tight around the overflow plug...
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Spokesmann
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A quick note to say a video of the test is on page 10.
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Mamod Collector
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Soon be time for the maidon voyage Mike
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silverfoxsteam
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Looking good - lovely detail in the photos again Mike.
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Spokesmann
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Well one side is glued into position now, which is a big step forward. It needs smoothing and a little filing but overall its fine. Once the other side is glued into position then I can thoroughly smooth down/file the entire hull ready for priming. Today was spent checking the fit of parts and getting a feel for how it will all look. The decking tops need to be cut to final size as well as contoured to fit the rear decking projecting arms. All the internal blass parts need to be screw into position and drilled ready for final fit after the painting/priming has been done. I have trimmed the outer engine brass cover and adjusted the curvature of the spray hood now I have a much better idea of their final positions. Anyway enough typing, here are some images of the work carried out thus far...
Glueing and clamping
With clamps taken off after 24-hour drying/setting of the glue...
Testing the engine and fittings into their relative positions...
Plenty of room to get at the ME3...
There is a lot of brass content in this boat, I feel the brass engine house and spray hood will make it look a bit different and up market! I have seen a few Arrows with painted spary hoods and to be honest I think it looks a little cheap and tacky, the bare aluminium is better...
The other Meccano 'canted' chimney for Arrow 3...
Position of the brass engine house in relation to the engine chromed cowl...
The lamp is in there!
Internal hull sides will be coverd in brass strip to help protect wood from heat and oil...
Brass!
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Spokesmann
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Quick vid of the build...
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Mamod Collector
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I,ve seen a lot of these boats, and your latest one is by far the best I,ve seen
The brass is a bit to shiney for me at the moment, but when it dulls down a bit
It will look fantastic
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Spokesmann
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Who said its going to be allowed to dull down!
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Franco
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Great job Mike- it's really coming together, using the brass is a sound idea as it looks special, but also because it will last!! .
Franco.
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Spokesmann
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It wont rust!
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Spokesmann
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Some more images of the build. I have glued the other side of the hull on now - a right  tussell but got there in the end.
I have cleaned up the hull and shaped the decking strips, I have been adjusting the fit of the internal brass parts and checking for fit, the brass will protect the hull from any possible meths spills and burns. Next stage will be to prime the hull, but not until much more smooth and and general cleaning up of the wood.
Here are some images in no particular order...
Internals.
he engine screw onto the raised parts, leaving space for lead strip ballast.
The front drip tray is screwed in and helps secure the front bulkhead and side bulkhead brass covers...
Some overall views...
Rear brass drip tray is a press fit...
Brass bow has yet to be shaped...
Quality decal completes the finish to the stern....
Copies are available, dont use some of the tommy rot I have seen.
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Mamod Collector
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Its coming on fast now Mike, soon be time for the launch
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Spokesmann
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Another month maybe.
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Phantom
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Love the drip tray to catch the mess from the engine.
The boat is going to be a pleasure to steam with touches like that.
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Spokesmann
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| Phantom wrote: | Love the drip tray to catch the mess from the engine.
The boat is going to be a pleasure to steam with touches like that. |
Thank you, I hope so, Im more worried about fire than anything.
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steamyjim
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That is looking truly brilliant Mike!
One of the best 'toy' boats I have seen in a long time
Toy boats are the only ones Im interested in Jim, once its got stop cocks, knobs, whistles bells and glass cabins and carpets - I just turn off.
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Spokesmann
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Wait till you see Arrow 3 Jim!
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steamyjim
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| Spokesmann wrote: | | Wait till you see Arrow 3 Jim! |
I look forward to it
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Spokesmann
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Started to prime the inner parts today...
Today I have primed all the surfaces. Im of a mind to make spray this one, what to members think and do they have any advice/experience of this?
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Phantom
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All of my boat refurbs have been done with spray enamel.
The only major problem I have found is to not let the paint build up too quickly.
I find it easier than using a brush, but everyone is different and finds there own way to get the job done.
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