Nick
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D-32el to MethsI received this D32 in early November and it's just been sitting there, waiting for me to do something with it.
The boiler had a bad leak, but the heater was still working, so I couldn't decide whether to fix the boiler and keep the heaters or convert it to meths.
With the new arrival of my Fleischmann 135/2 and it's powerful burner, I decided to remove the heaters and will be using that burner in both engines.
This is what it currently looks like with an MM2 on top for size comparison:
The engine half:
Boiler/firebox:
Corroded boiler:
Can you spot the leak?
If not, here it is:
This will also need to be resoldered (I can see cracks/fatigue in it):
Here are the heaters after removal:
Another part of the heater:
And this was the wiring under the base:
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Mamod Collector
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I like these restoration threads 
Is that a older D32 Nick, I've seen plenty with blue bases but not many with the grey bases
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Nick
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| Mamod Collector wrote: | I like these restoration threads
Is that a older D32 Nick, I've seen plenty with blue bases but not many with the grey bases |
It's one of the first, check out the logo on the control panel. 8)
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wilescoman
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lovely job mate ! they are pain to take to bits ! my father-in-law is takeing his d32 to bits which is a lot later one that one as a heater under neath the boiler same as a d22 . Good look what are you planning to do with the boiler .Had mine running on meths runns a treat well worth doing mate ! the electric ones are a bit uncontrolled just get to hot to quick !
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wilescoman
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forgot to ask is the d32 110v ?
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Nick
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| wilescoman wrote: | | forgot to ask is the d32 110v ? |
Yes, it's 110v.
I'm going to have to see how bad the boiler is after cleaning it up. It may just need a new endcap, or I may have to replace the entire boiler.
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Spokesmann
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Looking at the pics the assembly on the end of the boiler says 250v?
Since the boiler sits inside a jacket a new end cap could be made the the leaking end? If not remove it and patch it from the inside? The cracks in the solder hopefully are just that, the stresses those heater must put the boiler under are considerable I would think. Very interesting thread this, keep the pics coming Nick.
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Nick
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| Spokesmann wrote: | Looking at the pics the assembly on the end of the boiler says 250v?
Since the boiler sits inside a jacket a new end cap could be made the the leaking end? If not remove it and patch it from the inside? The cracks in the solder hopefully are just that, the stresses those heater must put the boiler under are considerable I would think. Very interesting thread this, keep the pics coming Nick. |
I noticed it says 250v on that piece too, but the heaters are each labeled 110v, 800 watts!  (Everyone I have talked to says the heaters are far too powerful. The water boils before they can get the filler plug back in.  )
The crack on the endcap may be able to be patched, but I'm guessing I'll need to make a new endcap.
I'll post more pics when I get some more work done.
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Spokesmann
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Could the cracked solder just be heated to re-melt it?  
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Nick
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| Spokesmann wrote: | | Could the cracked solder just be heated to re-melt it? |
It could, but it wouldn't be a strong joint.
I will remove all the solder, clean it, and re-solder.
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Spokesmann
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| Nick wrote: | | Spokesmann wrote: | | Could the cracked solder just be heated to re-melt it? |
It could, but it wouldn't be a strong joint.
I will remove all the solder, clean it, and re-solder. |
Probably the best course. I look forward to this reserection with great interest.
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