oldstuff
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Bowman PW203This is how I got it when it arrived over a year ago. I was pretty disgusted at the time;
it wasn't this bad in the auction photo. I dug it out a couple days ago and started working on it.
I removed the excess solder and resoldered the bushings. Only one burner cap, so one was
made for the other stem. At this point all I want to do is check how it runs, so I fired it up.
The steam valve at the block is a concern because it turns too freely. It runs strongest
with the handle up, but you can't keep it there as it quickly falls one way or the other.
I suppose I could tie it up to the steam pipe with a bit of wire, but thought maybe someone
here might know how best to tighten it.
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Mamod Collector
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It looks in a bad way Chuck
But it looks to be all there so thats a bonus
The PW203 is a beautifull engine Chuck
And is well worth the effort to bring it back to life
I for one am confident that it will be restored to perfect condition by you
Good luck with it Chuck
And keep us posted on your progress
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Spokesmann
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Without mine to hand Chuck, Im sure the regulator has a small retaining nut . . .
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John Chapman
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Look forward with interest to developments on the PW203 front, please keep us posted Chuck
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avenger
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Me too looking forwards to seeing it restored to life.
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oldstuff
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Hmm, it's not threaded like a nut, but sort of snapped on or press fitted. Its a bit tighter
now after a few taps.
Thanks guys. I'll probably just get this one running, through. It could use a full blown re-do
but I'm just not inclined to do it here. It's the only PW I've ever heard of having an
aluminum base!
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Spokesmann
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The baseplates on the PW203 is quite substancial, take care with the boiler straps and firebox - they bend easily and are in no time. A engine well worth of a full refurb!
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newts
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I'm sure the ''Chuck Steamshed '' will have that one looking pucker in no time
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oldstuff
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Yes, those aluminum fireboxes are delicate, especially the door. But all of the PW line
I've seen examples of have steel base plates, yet this one is aluminum!
Somethings amiss at the block. Either there's a leak where the regulator screws in,
or a failure in the exhaust system is causing it to back up.
The regulator's threads have a seat as if for an o-ring, but it could be it's just not
screwing in all the way. Two o-rings can plug the gap but bulge out into the path
of the cylinder.
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MFSteam
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nothing you cant do there, aluminium base is interesting.
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oldstuff
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I dunno Ian...I'm still fightin' with it. It's not the regulator valve at the block that's leaking.
Steam is coming up from between the cylinder and port blocks at the back.
The cylinder block looks good, but the port block is very slighty rounded at the rear.
I found the exhaust was partially blocked with solder and re-did it. but it still doesn't
put steam up the chimney, remove chimney and you see only little spits of water.
Yet I can blow thru the exhaust fine.
I should've checked port alignment when I had the pipe off, just to be certain.
Well, there's the bell for round three, time to get back in there...
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Spokesmann
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Sounds like the cylinder and port faces may need lapping Chuck!
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MFSteam
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any close up pics we might be able to help
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oldstuff
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Ah-ha! When cycling the crank, a tight spot was noticed just before the top of the
exhaust stroke causing the blocks to separate briefly. Turning the piston around
and tightening the trunion smoothed it out. Now steam comes out the chimney.
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Spokesmann
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Good news, look forward to the finished item Chuck!
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TRIPLET
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| Spokesmann wrote: | Without mine to hand Chuck, Im sure the regulator has a small retaining nut . . .  |
what i have done before with "loose" handles that will not stay in position is firstly,hold it firmly in a vice,protected by emery paper as soft jaws are not "dead" enough and then give the centre of the spindle a sharp blow with a centre punch which usually has the effect of spreading or "rivetting" the end and thus tightens the handle up,being brass or copper this is easily done(very mallable) and if neatly done looks original.
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silverfoxsteam
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PW203 regulator valveHi - just read about your loose valve problem!
The valve spindle is a sliding fit into the valve body, the end is then peened over - high class engineering! The only way I know to tighten it is to remove the valve, support the handle firmly in a vice and then, with a suitablly-shaped punch, hammer the peening a bit more!
It takes care and courage but it works!
Good luck.
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Nick
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This engine now belongs to John Reid:
http://www.freewebs.com/johnreid/bowman.htm
I don't think he has any problems with it, but I'll ask him about it. If he is having problems, I'll give him your advice.
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