Completely siezed up and badly corroded, a suitable case for treatment:
First job was a strip down. This is easy with Bowman engines unless the nuts & bolts are so corroded that WD40 and a torch won't work. Ultimately careful use of the junior hacksaw was required.
The countershaft had to be cut off and the bits drifted out. The pulley grubscrews were VERY carefully drilled out and the pullies freed. Luckily the crankshaft responded to WD40 and was eventually removed intact.
The boiler was cleaned and dispatched to a boilersmith of some renown 'down south' for the fitting of a replacement steamdome. A superb job I think you'll all agree... (Thanks MF Steam).
I then went about the preparation and repainting of the motion plate and base.
Fully assembled motion with the new countershaft:
The engine could then be refitted to the base...
The firebox and band responded to the Pasticote BBQ paint treatment - all the paintwork was subjected to 2hrs at Gas mark 1 (around 125 deg C).
And it all comes together:
And finaly... the finishing touch...
Decal supplied by Spokesman.
Hope you all find this sequence of interest, if I've missed anything please ask!
JJ
A job expertly done, what kind of time scale was involved Stephen ?.
Spokesmann
Make sure you varnish that decal Stephen, great job you have done. If you want to go a stage further, Bowman cylinders oin engines suchas the M158 and M167 had their cylinders painted green like their bases.
Spokesmann
This E158 has the typical painted cylinder...
Mamod Collector
Congratulations on a first rate job Steve
silverfoxsteam
JJ wrote:
A job expertly done, what kind of time scale was involved Stephen ?.
I suppose about four hours in all but spread over four/five weeks!
I find the great thing about restoring these small engines is that if you've got 5 mins you can do a little bit here and then a little bit there, and if you've got 30 mins you can do a whole lot more!!!!
My problem is that there's too much to do! I'm getting there gradually 'though.
Spokesmann
Keep the images of your restorations/refurbs coming - its also heartening to see a wreck brought back into the land of the steaming!
silverfoxsteam
Spokesmann wrote:
Make sure you varnish that decal Stephen, great job you have done. If you want to go a stage further, Bowman cylinders oin engines suchas the M158 and M167 had their cylinders painted green like their bases.
Decal's varnished as per your recommendation Mike.
I was wondering what the 'discolouration' was that I found on the cylinder, it was traces of the old paint! Thanks for pointing that out.
Nick
silverfoxsteam wrote:
Spokesmann wrote:
Make sure you varnish that decal Stephen, great job you have done. If you want to go a stage further, Bowman cylinders oin engines suchas the M158 and M167 had their cylinders painted green like their bases.
Decal's varnished as per your recommendation Mike.
I was wondering what the 'discolouration' was that I found on the cylinder, it was traces of the old paint! Thanks for pointing that out.
Very nice restoration.
Were the cylinders ever painted black?
I have an original M167 with a few traces of black paint.
Spokesmann
Nick wrote:
silverfoxsteam wrote:
Spokesmann wrote:
Make sure you varnish that decal Stephen, great job you have done. If you want to go a stage further, Bowman cylinders oin engines suchas the M158 and M167 had their cylinders painted green like their bases.
Decal's varnished as per your recommendation Mike.
I was wondering what the 'discolouration' was that I found on the cylinder, it was traces of the old paint! Thanks for pointing that out.
Very nice restoration.
Were the cylinders ever painted black?
I have an original M167 with a few traces of black paint.
They were very dark green.
8_10 Brass Cleaner
Very nice, looks like it had some serious corrosion.
The Plasticote BBQ paint is super stuff, I used it on the firebox on my SE1 resto.
Nick
Spokesmann wrote:
Nick wrote:
silverfoxsteam wrote:
Spokesmann wrote:
Make sure you varnish that decal Stephen, great job you have done. If you want to go a stage further, Bowman cylinders oin engines suchas the M158 and M167 had their cylinders painted green like their bases.
Decal's varnished as per your recommendation Mike.
I was wondering what the 'discolouration' was that I found on the cylinder, it was traces of the old paint! Thanks for pointing that out.
Very nice restoration.
Were the cylinders ever painted black?
I have an original M167 with a few traces of black paint.
They were very dark green.
Here ya go Mike, as far as I know, these are both original. The green cylinder on top is off my Bowman 410 and the black one is of my M167:
Spokesmann
Good pic Nick, I was going to say the green paint may have become burnt, but that definately looks black! I ws going add that maybe loco cylinders were black...
John Chapman
Brilliant job Stephen.
Nick wrote:
Were the cylinders ever painted black? I have an original M167 with a few traces of black paint.
As far as I have discovered; black and two shades of green - the lighter shade being found on the later M175 and M180 engines.
Spokesmann
Thanks John! Useful to know.
silverfoxsteam
8_10 Brass Cleaner wrote:
Very nice, looks like it had some serious corrosion.
Indeed there was - at one point I thought about using filler on the base and parts of the firebox, but that would've just hidden it's carelessly neglected history - what we're left with is 'character'!
Thanks for all the kind remarks chaps - I'm really quite taken aback!
silverfoxsteam
John Chapman wrote:
Nick wrote:
Were the cylinders ever painted black? I have an original M167 with a few traces of black paint.
As far as I have discovered; black and two shades of green - the lighter shade being found on the later M175 and M180 engines.
This is just how the forum should work, detailed info that otherwise would be lost to the vast majority!
newts
Good to see the pictorial record & nice crisp piccies.
A fine restoration of which you must be very proud
Interesting stuff with the painted cylinders.
Here's my E167 with the very dark green
silverfoxsteam
That's interesting, the piston protrudes quite a long way from the cylinder. I suppose this helps when an oiler is fitted as it give a bigger surface area for the lubricant to 'hit'?
Thanks for the kind remarks by the way Mike - the Lion's next up! The crisp picture's are down to my wife's camera.
Spokesmann
silverfoxsteam wrote:
That's interesting, the piston protrudes quite a long way from the cylinder. I suppose this helps when an oiler is fitted as it give a bigger surface area for the lubricant to 'hit'?
Thanks for the kind remarks by the way Mike - the Lion's next up! The crisp picture's are down to my wife's camera.
Good point.
silverfoxsteam
One thing I forgot - I'd better steam it and see if it works!
Spokesmann
And...
silverfoxsteam
Wait for it....wait for it....
silverfoxsteam
OK here it is, and, well there's a problem. A lot of priming and a shortage of steam produced a disappointing result.
Not having a suiltable Bowman burner (the one off the E135's far too big), I began with a small meths vap burner that filled up with spilled water when I lifted the safety valve 'just to check'.
An MM1 solid fuel bunrer with Esbit tabs produced more heat but there was far too much water and not enough steam. I think the steam pipe may be damaged in the waterspace - it looks like it may have to come out and a replacement made.
Just when you think it's finished...!
Here's a photobucket vid, I'll post another as soon as it's uploaded onto Youtube (too big for p/bucket).
silverfoxsteam
Here's a slightly better run...
I think I'll try steaming it again before stripping it down. I'll certainly await any and all suggestions from members before I do anything drastic!!!
Spokesmann
Looks even better in steam!
8_10 Brass Cleaner
Sounds like the boiler is dirty, and the water is foaming, thus you are getting very wet steam.
I notice its had a bit of soldering, so it'll be the flux from that.
I'd clean the boiler out a bit before your next go, It'll want degreasing and then chemically cleaning.
I use a couple of drops any washing up liquid first with half a boiler full of hot water, put the bungs back in and give it a shake. Give it a good rinse, then I use Cilit Bang watered down a bit again with hot water, but full. Let it soak a good half hour, then rinse well aagin.
Another thing is that the water level bungs in these Bowmans seem to be way too high, try half filling the boiler, and also try to pre warm the cylinder before a run. I usually get steam up, then push the cylinder off the face allowing the first bit of wet steam to escape, this also helps warm up the cylinder. Failing that hold a match under it for a bit.
Spokesmann
I agree with Hedd, the overflow plugs are a bit high on Bowmans - guaranteed to prime! if filled to the mark.
