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TE1a whistle and safety valve.
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JJ
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 11:18 am    Post subject: TE1a whistle and safety valve. Reply with quote

Are these a standard size or did they differ during production ?
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steamyjim
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The TE1a safety valve and whistle always have been 1/4 26tpi BSF sized thread Wink
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Spokesmann
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The TE has had two,possibly three different types of whistle: the 'turned brass type' the 'sprung reset type' and possibly the button push down type - similar to the sprung reset version, these were not common.
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JJ
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to both of you for the replies and information. The whistle that is on now is locked solid and the body seems to be slightly bent through what I can only assume is light damage. I can't be sure but I think the centre section that pushes down under the pressure of the arm is thicker in diameter than the sprung centre section of the whistle on my other TE which seems smaller in diameter.

Once I get it off I will photograph it and post the pic.
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".......and albeit briefly, the man with no brain dipped his toes into the calm waters of reason then happily returned to frolic on insanity beach."
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Spokesmann
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JJ wrote:
Thanks to both of you for the replies and information. The whistle that is on now is locked solid and the body seems to be slightly bent through what I can only assume is light damage. I can't be sure but I think the centre section that pushes down under the pressure of the arm is thicker in diameter than the sprung centre section of the whistle on my other TE which seems smaller in diameter.

Once I get it off I will photograph it and post the pic.


Vinegar can help the release a seized whistle, even coca cola! There comes a point if its so bad that 'heavy' tools are needed to un-seize it, maybe even fitting a new collar in the boiler, but then the strip down gets serious. What you really need to ask yourself do you need to remove the whistle? Smile
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JJ
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spokesmann wrote:
JJ wrote:
Thanks to both of you for the replies and information. The whistle that is on now is locked solid and the body seems to be slightly bent through what I can only assume is light damage. I can't be sure but I think the centre section that pushes down under the pressure of the arm is thicker in diameter than the sprung centre section of the whistle on my other TE which seems smaller in diameter.

Once I get it off I will photograph it and post the pic.


Vinegar can help the release a seized whistle, even coca cola! There comes a point if its so bad that 'heavy' tools are needed to un-seize it, maybe even fitting a new collar in the boiler, but then the strip down gets serious. What you really need to ask yourself do you need to remove the whistle? Smile


I fully appreciate your expertise and experience, your advice will be first and foremost whilst I give this matter some thought.

Perhaps what seems to be a steady camber in the whistle body has something to do with it being siezed, I dunno.
Rolling Eyes  Rolling Eyes

I'm not getting to serious about removing it. My reckoning is that it will eventually loosen with gentle persuasion, penetrant and the right size spanner. I have all the time in the world.
Shocked  Shocked  Shocked  Shocked
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Spokesmann
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sensible approach, Ive seen the bull in a china shop approach before and usually something breaks! Either the part of the owners patience. Laughing
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newts
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once the oil has had a chance to soak in, you could apply a gentle heat around the collar with a gas torch. This usually helps release any seized threads, a gentle turn with a spanner whilst it's still hot & it should be free.
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