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Di water, tightness of belts and polishing engines
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les
Minor 2 - novice
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:22 pm    Post subject: Di water, tightness of belts and polishing engines Reply with quote

I am sorry if the following questions have been replied to before but I couldn't find the answers I am looking for. I have three questions I hope you can help me with. I have Mamod SE2 and SE3 engines and intend to mount them on a board with associated lineshafts and tools.
1/ If I screw the engines down to the base plate I would have to unscrew them each time I have finished using them to remove the remaining water from the boilers. I use RO with DI water filtered ( this is the most pure water you can get with a TDS of "O") can I leave the water in the boiler without harming it in anyway?
2/ I have polished the brass of the engines after a long lay off using Brasso wadding. however some of the brass work is still tarnished. Is the an easy/better way to remove the tarnish esp the difficult areas to reach with the Brasso?  Also what is the best thing to use to polish the brass work?
3/ How tight should I have the drive belts running between my engines, line shaft and tools?

Thank you.
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Spokesmann
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First of all spring drive belts should be tight enough to run the tool and let the engine steam without too much effort, if they are too tight they bind will bind a slow the engine, its a bit of hit and miss really. Offer up the new belt to the engine/tool/lineshaft and wrap around the desired pullies. Then offer up the ends of the belt and if necessary overlap until you get an idea of the tension required. Cut the belt to size and fit. Try and screw the taper end in just so far, so it will hold. test the tension, if you think its too loose still cut the band again, say by a 10mm. Use good strong scissors or a dedicated wire cutter pliers. Once the tension is to your liking screw the taper in all the way. Remember that the engines like to run fast, so gear the engine/tool accordingly using a lineshaft if for more than one tool.

As to the boilers polishing, it sounds like the boiler still has some of the original lacquer on it, which is preserving the underlying brass surface causing patching. If most of the lacquer is gone polish the rest off or use a little paint stripper and once clean polish again. Some members I know dont like polishing, prefering to keep the boilers patina and only wiping over with the perverbial oily rag. We wont talk about what's the best way of restoration!

As for engines screw down on a base board, use a syringe and tube to suck out remaining water after a steaming, leave the boiler fittings loose afterwards so the boiler will dry naturally.

Hope that helps! Smile
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Last edited by Spokesmann on Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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silverfoxsteam
SE2 - steam enthusiast 2 star
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couldn't have put it better myself.

I always syringe out as much water as possible and leave the fittings (s/v and/or level plug) off completely (in one of those little self sealing bags). If the engine/workshop is kept in a box (a lot of mine are), I also throw in a couple of large silica gel bags alongside for good measure!
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Spokesmann
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few bits of driveband madness...


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les
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice and tips much appreciated. Here's a few pic's which I hope will show the different areas of polishing. Note sure how you get into the areas around pipe work and in the nooks and crannies though.

SE2 Engine.


SE3 Engine.



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Spokesmann
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Several ways of getting at it, dismantle the engine and thoroughly clean with very fine wet and dry, then polish, or the hard way using small amounts of wadding polish and work in and around the various steam pipes, bands and fittings. Some prefer to use these Dremel things... I prefer the hand done approach, basically a little application and elbow grease. They look like water stains on the SE2 boiler.
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Spokesmann
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was all done by hand with very fine abrasive pad and wadding polish.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then again I like my 1969 SE3 screw crank left as god intended!


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